Designs by Karen Lewis - Millinery and hats blog, Cambridge

'Style and Subversion'

2012-01-30T10:41:00.003Z

On a very quick trip to the Victoria and Albert museum last Friday I managed to catch the Postmodernism exhibition 'Style and Subversion' 1970-1990.

Postmodernism is a movement in architecture that rejected modernist avant garde passion for the new. Artists and designers from this period wanted to create modern designs with a hint of classical forms from the past. After the modern age (post) its a step back to the past to create something even more modern.This movement rapidly influenced all areas of popular culture including art, film, music, graphics and fashion.

I wasn't sure if I would like the show, I thought it may be a bit retro and '80's but I found it very interesting particularity the use of collage in some of the work. I loved seeing the Leigh Bowery costumes from the Michael Clark shows and an outfit from Vivienne Westwood's 'Punkacture' collection. There was a real mix of work that created an exciting show and it was enjoyable visiting this era again.

New dress code at Ascot

2012-01-18T10:36:00.001Z

Some interesting articles in the press today about the introduction of a new dress code at Royal Ascot which states;

"Hats should be worn; a headpiece which has a base of four inches (10cm) or more in diameter is acceptable as an alternative to a hat"

Daily Telegraph: Royal Ascot to tighten dress code

The Guardian: Royal Ascot pins down hat guidelines

If you'd like to discuss your own individual requirements for ladies day and ensure that you don't fall foul of any Royal Enclosure dress codes, please get in touch! When commissioning your hat, I am always happy to discuss colour and fabric preferences to achieve the perfect look for your outfit.

Contact Karen

Millinery Evening Classes for All

2011-11-15T12:44:00.001Z

For those with a keen interest in hat design, my evening classes will introduce you to basic millinery techniques.

No experience is required, and you will learn skills such as blocking, wiring and trimming a felt hat or headpiece for the festive season. At the end of the course you will have created an original hat/headpiece to take home to wear.

Location: Cambridge Art Salon, 29 Cromwell Road, Romsey, Cambridge. CB1 3EB

For further details and booking please contact me on 07875247808 or email info@designsbykarenlewis.com

The Tomb of the Unknown Craftsman

2011-10-28T22:12:00.000+01:00

Inthis exhibition, Grayson Perry celebrates the work made by unknown men andwomen throughout history from the British Museum, alongside his new work.  Hetakes you on a journey through his imagination to explore cultures and themes,exploring Shamansim, magic identity and contemporary culture. All with the helpof his favourite Teddy Alan Measles.  

It is apparent from the show that he has an interest in Japanese and AfricanCulture. Temples and shrines feature in this exhibition, incorporating hisbeloved Teddy.  His vases, for which he is most famous, are beautifullydecorated. However, they lull you into a false sense of security as when youlook closer they are not what they seem.

You have to look closely to see the sometimes quite dark and dangerousmessages. I have always found them fascinating; seeing beautiful objects buthaving your senses pushed in another direction is really powerful.  

Everyone who knows Grayson Perry is aware that he is a transvestite who goesunder the name of Claire. He touches on this at his show, always in a humorousway. As he says "one fact that every transvestite has to come to termswith is that a person dressed up is funny. This can be difficult and I feelthis has profoundly shaped my outlook on life. I regard humour as an importantnecessary aspect of art".  His sense of humour runs right throughthis show and as he says "The craftsman's anonymity I find especiallyresonant in an age of the celebrity artist".  A memorable, thoughtprovoking show.
http://www.britishmuseum.org/whats_on/exhibitions/grayson_perry.aspx

Media watch

2011-10-05T09:53:00.001+01:00

Interesting article in the New York Times entitled 'Hat Makers With Attitude'. Click on the link below

New York Times

Celia Birtwell in conversation

2011-09-26T19:49:00.001+01:00

Today I went to my favourite place for my first ever talk. The V&A to see Celia Birtwell, one of Britain’s best-known textile designers. At the moment I have been revisiting my interest and love of textiles, I am not sure why, but I have been flicking through my books on Lucienne Day and Zandra Rhodes so I was thrilled to see the V&A hosting Celia Birtwell in conversation.    

Celia studied at Salford Art College at the incredibly young age of 13, where she developed her unique fashion and textile drawings.  After Art college she came to London and met the fashion designer Ossie Clark. They combined his beautiful feminine clothes with her gorgeous prints and created a style, which dominated the sixties.  They soon married and had two children.    

Celia too hails the V&A as her favourite place to come and gain inspiration. In her talk she spoke about a particular photo in their archives of Leon Bakst's - L Apres midi d'un faune-1912, which inspired one of her first collections. She also told us of her love of medieval textiles and Jacobean embroidery.  It was interesting to see how she translated these ancient designs to something of her own.

During the talk images were projected of her wonderful designs. Bold, rich prints translated from page to the figure. 'Mystic Daisy' and 'Tulips' (1972) are two of my favourites.    

Of course the conversation moved onto David Hockney her great friend and she, for him, his muse.  Celia has posed for him countless times but she will always be immortalized in the painting Mr and Mrs Clarke and Percy (1970) one of Hockney's most famous paintings. It was great to hear about the background to this painting and for her to share the story of Hockney's difficulty in painting Ossie's feet. So he covered them with a shag pile carpet to disguise this.    

Celia Birtwell came out of the spotlight after Ossie Clarke was killed. She quietly brought up her boys and concentrated on textiles for interiors.  In 2006, however, Top Shop approached her to collaborate and she then moved back in to fashion. Here she reached out to a new audience and her collections were youthful, but still had the Celia Birtwell signature. They were a big success and lasted three seasons.

Her book, which has taken two years to put together, is a beautiful account of her work and colourful life.

Opening of the Cambridge Arts Salon

2011-09-17T00:22:00.003+01:00

This week the studio space I have been working in, along with several other artists, opened its doors to the public. It was a great night. A real party atmosphere with a brilliant DJ and a gorgeous burlesque dancer serving drinks. The Art salon will host exhibitions, workshops and various other events.

For more information, visit http://www.cambridgeartsalon.org.uk/

Ladies Day at St Leger Horse Races, Doncaster, 7 July 2011

2011-09-11T10:45:00.007+01:00

Click here to see a fun video of some of the unusual hats and headpieces worn at St Leger's Ladies Day.

Also check out the BBC Sports gallery!

A summer wedding

2011-09-11T10:25:00.007+01:00

Congratulations to Anne and her husband who recently married this summer. To complement her absolutely gorgeous dress, Anne wore one of my Plume designs, featuring a light chocolate shot satin base, crin trim with handmade chiffon petals and ostrich feather centrepiece.

Love is What You Want

2011-08-15T12:25:00.002+01:00

For my summer holidays this year I am going on two holidays. Firstly to London (where I grew up) and later to Northumberland where I have never been. It’s been a great holiday so far, visiting family and friends but also there has been time for a little bit of culture. First stop was the wonderful Cartoon Museum really close to the British Museum, hidden away on Little Russell Street. I am not really a comic reader but I did enjoy seeing the original drawings of so many familiar comic strips and the Hogarth satirical cartoons are brilliant; definitely worth a visit.

Today though I went to Tracey Emin’s Love is What You Want at the Hayward gallery (18th May-29th August). I have a soft spot for Emin as embroidery and appliqué dominate her work and I love cloth and stitches.

This show isn’t an easy show to see. There is, as you would expect, an awful lot of text to read and you have to take time to read her words and digest the work; the content may also be difficult for some to deal with.

Walking around I did wonder whether I had had my fill of Emin as she always uses her own life as the starting point for her art. Her work is so personal that, for some pieces, I did not know if I wanted to delve into her world. Her response to her abortions feature heavily in the show for example. But being the Artist she is, it is hard not to resist.

The exhibition includes work from over her career and she uses many different media, including textiles, film, prints, neon lights and wooden structures. Some of her work I found too sentimental such as the film of her and her dad running through the waves in Cyprus. However the film which included her mum talking to Tracey about Tracey not having children is compelling. Her loving mum rejoicing that Tracey had her abortions and doesn’t have children was unusual to see.

The piece of work which has stayed with me the most is her 2002 piece ‘Knowing My Enemy’. It was more her need to respond to a letter her dad had sent her when he was trying to steer her away from drink than the actual structure she built. It was, like her father’s, her longing to find a place to be happy that really touched me, and her suggestion of a missing presence.

Millinery watch: Royal Wedding of Zara Phillips and Mike Tindall

2011-07-31T15:10:00.010+01:00

To see some of the headpieces worn at the royal wedding of Zara Phillips, click on the link below

International Business Times - Royal Wedding hats

Daily Mail: Wedding Belles

Grazia: Fascinators

Have a cuppa at the Candid Arts Cafe

2011-07-28T15:01:00.007+01:00

Met up with my brother in London today and he suggested that we go to the Candid Art's Cafe. Tucked away down an alley, away from the hustle and bustle of Islington and just behind the Angel tube station you will find some stairs that will lead you to a wonderful place to enjoy a cuppa or two.

I had a delicious coffee cake and cup of green tea and sat surrounded by deep red velvet comfy sofa's, candelabra and paintings of ladies (au naturel) on the walls. I didn't want to leave, I could have stayed in that world all day, drinking tea and people watching. A great change from all the boring chains of coffee shops we have today.

For more information, click on the link below http://www.candidarts.com/sections/galleryandcafepages/candid_cafe.htm

Anna at Ascot

2011-07-14T16:26:00.009+01:00

Many thanks to Anna who sent in this photo of her recent visit to Ascot Ladies Day. Anna is wearing my SPIRAL fascinator design made from silk dupion and featuring beaded ribbon and ostrich feathers. She looks absolutely beautiful and the headpiece worked really well with her gorgeous outfit. For more Ladies day hat ideas, visit my website

Fetching in fuchsia!

2011-07-01T14:17:00.010+01:00

I’d just like to share a few photos sent in by one of my clients. Elizabeth commissioned a fuchsia button hat made from liquid satin material, which she wore to a recent wedding. Elizabeth looks absolutely fantastic and the hat really complemented her outfit.I'm always happy to discuss the perfect material and colour to match your outfit. Please give me a call to discuss your individual requirements: 07875 247 808 or email info@designsbykarenlewis.com

Chewy Cosmos thingly time

2011-06-29T13:02:00.004+01:00

An exhibition by Andy Holden.
Curated by Dan Cox.
This week I took myself of to my local art gallery, Kettles yard in Cambridge. The artist on show was Andy Holden. The show starts before you enter the gallery with a piece of music he composed entirely from sounds recorded in sea side amusement arcades. It made for interesting listening.

The show was inspirational, it was great to see a range of media and ideas under one roof. First you enter Holden's world with a video of his amazing Boulder and to the left glass cases filled with beautiful , deliciously knitted fruit representing the arcade ' grabber ' ! Great fun.

As you walk around following the unusual plasticine smell , his work becomes more thought provoking and sad. Bookshelves filled with books belonging to his friend Dan Cox, the curator of this show who was sadly killed in February.

I particularly loved the wobbly eyes in space and bowls hanging made from gramophone records. Watch out for Charlie Brown, he pops up everywhere.
A show definitely worth a look.

For more information visit the Kettle's Yard website

Fashion icon: Valentina

2011-06-21T13:29:00.003+01:00

One designer that I'm absolutely obsessed with at the moment is Valentina Schlee. Watch this short documentary to find out more about this sensational designer and her beautiful courture creations.

My studio

2011-06-21T12:28:00.009+01:00

At the moment I'm exploring golden feathers and wings as a key theme for my autumn millinery collection.
I love the idea of combing different fabrics such as tartan and lace and using gold embroidery to add real impact to my headpieces. Here are a few rough sketches and samples that are on my studio wall.

Millinery galore at Royal Ascot Ladies Day

2011-06-14T18:48:00.006+01:00

Click on the following link to see a gallery of hats from this year's Ascot Ladies Day

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhSdDtLPaqg

Millinery inspiration: Paloma Faith

2011-06-12T11:45:00.006+01:00

Always love to see what amazing headpieces Paloma is wearing. Here are some of my favourites:

Check out the following gallery of Paloma's eclectic style: ContactMusic

Epsom Ladies' Day

2011-06-05T12:55:00.005+01:00

To see photos of some of the fantastic millinery creations worn at Epsom Horse Races, visit BBC Sport and The Sun

With Ascot soon upon us, have you found your perfect hat or fascinator yet? Why not give me a call to discuss your unique individual requirements. Visit my Ladies' Day web page for more information.

A twist on the Turban

2011-05-31T12:37:00.005+01:00

I'm so glad that the world is finally discovering the delights of the 'urban turban' as reported in the press today. Why not give me a call to discuss commissioning your own beautiful and stylish turban.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1392399/Forget-Beatrices-pretzel-hat--formal-millinery-taking-U-S-storm-too.html

Washed up

2011-05-29T21:25:00.007+01:00

Today, I visited a brilliant little exhibition of hats at London's Selfridges department store. 'Washed up' explores how the ocean and it's contents have influenced some of the most memorable designs in fashion history.

The exhibit includes gorgeous millinery pieces by artists such as Stephen Jones, Philip Treacy, Emma Yeo, Zara Gorman, Justin Smith Esquire and Alexander McQueen (to name a few) which are staged around displays of deadwood and coral.

Don't miss the absolutely awe inspiring exhibits of corals and the sad narrative around their destruction by those who want to own a piece of their beauty.

The exhibition really resonated with me personally as last year I based my summer collection on the beautiful and intricate oceanic drawings and watercolours of Professor Ernst Haeckel.

For more information about the exhibition, visit Selfridges.com

An interview with Stephen Jones

2011-05-18T20:19:00.004+01:00

Just found this great clip from the V&A which gives an interesting insight in to the life, work and style of milliner Stephen Jones. Enjoy!

Isabella Blow - Millinery icon

2011-05-17T13:32:00.017+01:00

It was around about this time a few years ago that Isabella Blow, one of the fashions worlds most influential figures, sadly took her life. She will always be remembered for amazingly eccentric style, something which helped propel designers such as Philip Treacy to the top of their game.

Visit Style.com and Guardian.co.uk to see photo galleries of this style icon wearing some of the most spectacular millinery masterpieces ever created.

Kentucky Derby 2011

2011-05-09T15:50:00.014+01:00

Below are links to a few galleries showing hats worn at the recent Kentucky Derby horse races. Enjoy!

OCRegister

Styleite

News Gather

1960s Dior millinery inspiration!

2011-05-05T22:42:00.003+01:00

Newmarket Ladies Day, 7 July 2011

2011-05-03T10:15:00.011+01:00

If you're looking for a headpiece for Newmarket Horse Races Ladies Day, why not get in touch? I have a stylish range of handmade fascinators and pillboxes that are just ideal for the occasion!

And remember, I'm always happy to discuss colour and fabric preferences to help you get the perfect look for your very special outfit!

The Royal Wedding: Millinery watch

2011-04-29T16:53:00.021+01:00

Tara Palmer-Tomkinson in Philip Treacy

Victoria Beckham in Philip Treacy

To see a CNN gallery of some of the other beautiful millinery masterpieces, click here

Madame Grès: Couture at Work

2011-04-25T01:03:00.019+01:00

On my most recent trip to Paris I was lucky enough to see an advert on the Metro for an exhibition held in the Musée Bourdelle.

Antoine Bourdelle (1861-1929) was a sculptor who studied under Rodin and lived in the Montparnasse area of Paris. The Musée Bourdelle is located in the building of his studio, where he also lived, and now has an exceptional collection of plaster sculptures, bronzes, paintings and graphic works.

At the museum there was also an exhibition of the work of Madame Grès: “Madame Grès: Couture at Work”. She created a range of exceptional work from the 1930s to 70s; Grès always said she wanted to be a sculptor so her exquisite dresses are draped and sculpted like beautiful statues.

Her work is interwoven beautifully amongst Bourdelle’s magnificent statues and the two artists complement each other to make a fantastic exhibition. Read the New York Times review

Art forms in nature millinery collection

2010-07-01T20:50:00.008+01:00

My summer collection is based on drawings by Professor Ernst Haeckel. He undertook many ocean voyages in the nineteenth century where he brought back hundreds of drawings and watercolours of natural forms such as shells and fossils.

In my work I have tried to capture the delicacy and detail of his drawings by using wire to create shell and fossil-like shapes. I advise anyone to have a look at 'Art Forms in Nature' by Ernst Haeckel - you will be amazed by his beautiful drawings.

An enchanting fashion experience

2010-05-17T19:25:00.008+01:00

Just been to the most amazing exhibition in Kensington Palace called 'Enchanted'. Inside you're given a quest to find the princesses who have lived in the palace by guessing their identity through the installations in each room. Each room is filled with designs from artists such as Vivienne Westwood and Stephen Jones millinery. This is a must for any fashion, art and history lover! Read the Independent review

New pillbox collection for 2010

2010-05-14T16:40:00.007+01:00

This month sees the launch of my new collection of pillboxes. Inspired by the 1930s, these designs are perfect for those wanting to bring a touch of early 20th Century glamour to their outfits!

Now let's take a look at some predictions for 21st Century fashion, from the 1930s...